The French Riviera, it conjurs up quite a lot of images: turquoise seas, glamorous (rich) people, art nouveau, casinos, white linen trousers, and stripy beach umbrellas. I don’t count myself as rich or glamourous, so I was curious to see how much I’d enjoy a break on the Cote d’Azur.
We stayed in Nice for three nights, close to the Promenade du Paillon, which is a long and narrow park built over a former river, which divides the winding streets of the old town from the more spacious and stylish new town. Many of the modern and large hotels are in the new town, but it’s still only a short walk to the beach wherever you’re staying.
Nice may be the 5th largest city in France, but has a population smaller than Bristol’s (around 350k), and so when you weren’t in the touristy areas of the old town it actually felt quite chilled for a city – maybe that’s the Mediterranean influence!
Things to do
There are plenty of options for things to do in Nice, luckily most involve strolling around parks and promenades, eating or sitting on the beach, but there are also numerous museums and galleries if you want to take in a bit of culture. There are also tons of options for day trips, whether you want to have a change of scene for your beach day, or take in the lavender fields (more on that further down).
- Vieux Nice – the old town isn’t just a place for eating and drinking, it’s worth taking a morning to stroll around the pretty streets before the crowds descend for lunch and dinner.
- Marché aux Fleurs – this market on Cours Saleya in the old town is just before you get to the beach and very pretty to walk around while smelling the flowers.
- Promenade du Anglais – running the entire length of the beach in Nice, this walkway is a lovely spot to take in the views of the sea, go for a jog, or stop into one of the numerous beach bars for a glass of something chilled.
- Parc de la Colline du Château – this hill stands where Nice Castle once stood before being razed in the 18th Century. There are numerous viewpoints, and it’s nice and shady too.
- Parc Phoenix – a pretty park and zoo on the outskirts of the city. The Line 2 tram (which runs from the airport to the port via the old town) stops right outside.
- Musée Matisse – the famous French artist called Nice home for much of his life, and this museum showcases some of his best works.
- Promenade du Paillon – I mentioned this park above, it’s a serene spot in the middle of the city with numerous shady spots and playgrounds. There’s also an outdoor theatre and plenty of other outdoor events throughout the year.
- Place Massena – a large and pretty square at the end of Promenade du Paillon, with pretty buildings and a distinctive checkboard pattern on the ground.
- Musée Terre Amata – a museum built around a pre-historic site.
- Villa Massena – an art history museum housed in a beautiful villa, next door to another iconic building, Le Negresco.
The Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (MAMAC) was closed for renovations when we visited in July 2024, so it’s worth checking if that’s back open if you go to Nice, as it’s something you always see recommended!
Beaches
We didn’t find a sandy beach during our trip, but the difference between each beach was quite surprising for such a short distance – some had larger pebbles like in Nice, whereas spots like Menton or Beaulieu had smaller stones. Either way, it’s comfy enough to sit/lie on, but I’d bring water shoes for getting in and out of the water.
- Nice – I couldn’t believe how lush the main beach in Nice was, if you’re only there for a couple of days it’s more than good enough with pristine water, lots of space and plenty of places to eat and drink nearby. There are also several private beaches in front of restaurants where where you can have your own sun lounger or table with a view of the sea, plus service from the bar/restaurant and facilities for showering and changing.
- Villefranche – the first stop on the train from Nice Riquier station towards Ventimiglia, this beach is a very popular choice in summer, so prepare for a packed train ride (luckily it’s only 5 minutes!). You can see why though, it’s a long beach with crystal waters, but you’ll not have much space to yourself.
- Beaulieu-sur-Mer – we found a couple of good beaches in this pretty town, just one stop further on the train than Villefranche. Plage des Fourmis is very scenic with a little marina and some classic Riviera buildings, but we preferred Petite Afrique beach which was just past the port and had more shade. There are only a couple of cafes and restaurants by the beach, but it’s only a short walk to the centre of the town where you’ll have more choice.
- Eze – another stop on the coastal train I mentioned, Eze-sur-Mer has a long beach with a couple of restaurants, plus a scenic 40min hike up to Eze village, a charming little place with some impressive viewpoints, quaint streets and a botanic garden. You can also take the 82 bus direct from Nice to the village and walk down to the beach and station if you prefer.
- Menton – a small town with a good variety of shops and restaurants, but more touristic than Eze or Bealieu. There was a nice promenade next to the Plage des Sablettes (pictured below) with lots of nice restaurants and bars, but we did find the water at that beach a bit dirtier than Plage du Casino. A buzzing place though, especially as the sun started to set.
Day trips
As I mentioned above, it’s easy to travel from Nice to neighbouring towns and villages – the trains and buses are very reasonably priced and frequent. If you’re planning on travelling around a fair bit, it could be worth looking into the Nice bus and tram passes, or a regional train pass.
- Monaco – home to the famous Formula 1 street track, various billionaires and some ridiculous real estate, this dinky principality is about half an hour from Nice by train or 45min with the 100 bus. We spent half a day there and took a wander up to Monaco City (about two streets, a cathedral and a palace, but pretty nevertheless), before getting the little sightseeing road train, which was a good way to see more of the place without having to walk up more hills in the heat. It’s worth taking a trip up to Monte Carlo to see the famous casino and hotel, and stopping for lunch near the port in either the square at Le Marché de la Condamine (where you can try some Monégasque specialities in the market), or on nearby Rue Princess Caroline for some more little cafes and restaurants.
- Antibes – an historic town on the coast with 16th Century city walls and several beaches. It’s been a haven for artists and there’s a Picasso Museum if you want to get out of the sun. You can get here with the train from Nice-Ville station in about 25min.
- Grasse – apparently the perfume capital of France, you can visit the International Perfume Museum Gardens, or book on to an experience to create your own perfume. It’s a pretty town to spend a few hours and have lunch. You can get there in an hour on the train from Nice-Ville, or 1hr20min with the 650 bus from outside Parc Phoenix.
- Cannes – I heard mixed things about Cannes, on the one hand it is iconic due to the world-famous film festival, and there is a nice promenade and beach, but not much else by all accounts. It’s 36min by train from Nice-Ville station, but I reckon if you’re already staying in Nice there’s not much you can see in Cannes that you can already experience in Nice.
- Saint Paul de Vence – a pretty village high up on a hill inland. A good option for a photogenic and calm day trip, and about an hour from Nice by train.
- Provence – not really a day trip from Nice as it’s about three hours each way, but there are multiple excursions and guided tours which run from Nice if you do want to see this beautiful area but only have limited time.
- The Alps – you can take a train from Nice-Ville station to some Alpine towns and enjoy the views on the way, including Sospel or Breil-sur-Roya. There’s also the historic Le Train des Pignes which has steam train journeys on selected days.
Food and drink
I’m not sure why I was surprised that the local cuisine here is such a mish-mash of French and Italian influences – Nice is only 30km from the Italian border, and you can take a train direct to Ventimiglia from Nice Riquier (which is the same line and train station you’ll need for Villefranche, Beaulieu-sur-Mer, Eze, Menton and Monaco).
Make sure you try local Niçoise specialities such as pan bagnat (basically a Niçoise salad in a little baguette), pissaladière (anchovy and onion tart), socca (gram flour pancake) and daube (a hearty beef stew with carrots, onions, bacon and red wine).
Some of the top areas to go for a bite to eat in the old town if you want a bit of ambience are Rue Bonaparte, Place Garibaldi and around the port area. You’ll also find places much more relaxed and reasonably priced outside of the old town. You’ll have plenty of choice, although a lot of places are very small and French people tend to book ahead, so if you’re keen to go to a particular restaurant I recommend reserving a table.
Below is a list of places that we either tried or were highly recommended by locals and people who’ve visited a few times. If in doubt, the Niçoise locals are always happy to recommend a bar, restaurant, dish or local wine – they’re super proud of their gastronomic heritage and want you to enjoy it in all its glory!
- La Merenda – an old-school and homely restaurant loved by locals (we had it recommended more than once) and serving local delicacies.
- Le Bar des Oiseaux – a seeemingly traditional bistro serving up stylish plates with a modern twist.
- Cave de la Tour – another place we were told about multiple times, this restaurant has been open since 1947, with a menu of Niçoise speciailities and a great wine selection.
- Coco Bar – we really enjoyed the vibe at this tiny bar in the old town. They have a good menu of cocktails and other drinks, and some decent happy hour offers too.
- Chez Acchiardo – a very popular third generation restaurant serving traditional Niçoise and Italian dishes.
- La Treille – a cute wine bar tucked into a back street. We found the service a little curt with us, but the wines were fantastic.
- Bella Ciao – a fun little bar in the old town with live music.
- Oxford Pub – it’s not often I’ll recommend an Irish pub, but this one was like a mish-mash between a rock bar, Irish pub and just whacky dive bar – they have regular live music and memes on the menu, so I very much enjoyed!
- YOSE – We stopped into this Peruvian after spotting their three-course ceviche lunch deal, with a choice of four different ceviche options, perfect for a hot day! They’re also mentioned in the Michelin guide for their creative cooking.
- Le Béthel – one of Nice’s hidden bars, tucked away in the courtyard of a church, a very atmospheric spot.
- Olive & Artichaut – high quality Mediterranean food at reasonable prices, which has earned it a mention in the Michelin guide.
- Lavomatique – a slick restaurant run by two brothers, where you can enjoy some trendy small plates.
- Chez Papa – another local’s recommendation, serving modern French cuisine near the port.
- Berco – wine, cheese and meats, all done exceptionally well.
- Le Comptoir du Marché – critically-acclaimed restaurant serving up a short but quality menu of the best local ingredients with style.
- Beer District – the best-known craft beer bar in Nice, with 16 beers on tap.
- Le Bistrot d’Antoine – a very popular restaurant in the old town (we never managed to secure a table), it looks quite rustic on the outside but the menu is traditional with some very modern flourishes.
- Rooftop bars – Head to La Scala or La Terrasse.
There are also several vineyards within easy reach of Nice, whether you want to join a guided tour or make your own way out by bike or by car. Château De Crémat and Chateau de Bellet seem to be the most popular, or here are some of the wine and food tours you can book:
- Azur Wine Tours (full-day tour of 3 Provence vineyards from Nice)
- Nice Food & Wine Tours (award-winning 4-hour food and wine tour around Nice)
- French Riviera Wine Tours (range of half and full day tours to different regions)
- A Taste of Nice (various food & wine tours in the morning or evening, plus cycling tours)
Let me know if you do any of the above, I love hearing if people have used the guides during their trips! If you found this post particularly useful, you can buy me a coffee to say thanks – thank you to everyone who has so far, it really does mean a lot.
Have a read of some more guides:
A Life Less Organised 